PHOOD

I've always had a weird struggle with food. When I was about 11 years old I decided that I was frumpy and overweight so, I made the decision to be the first worst vegetarian in all of West Virginia. "Whaddya mean NO MEAT?... You want bacon instead?"

I lasted about 9 years on cereal, ketchup sandwiches and microwave noodles before buckling in college to a two day old Philly Cheese Steak. (YES, I still call them "Philly Cheese Steaks". I also refer to soda as POP and the way you people pronounce "radiator" and "Acme" gives me a full bellied laugh every time. Please don't ever stop.)

Growing up in that yo-yo diet crazed part of the 90's had a huge impact on the way I looked at food. It was my enemy. Fourteen grams of fat a day was the limit. Plain yogurt, black coffee and 5 macadamia nuts for breakfast, cardio for lunch and a 200 calorie plastic-wrapped microwave disaster for dinner. Mom started sneaking vegetable oil into the few meals that I allowed her to prepare for me, simply to keep me alive. (Thanks Mom.) It was my 103 pound summer and I wouldn't do it again if you promised me fame, fortune, and another forbearance on my student loans.

After 28 years on this silicone waif infested planet, I have decided that it's okay to have a healthy bum. I know enough about Photoshop to understand that Demi Moore's hips aren't concave in real life and regardless, Kelso ain't complainin'. The girls walking downtown with legs so thin they disappear if you blur your eyes look pretty friggin' cold this time of year and I'll bet you a dollar they haven't licked the ricotta off a plate of lasagna in a loooong time.

Working and living in Philadelphia has opened my eyes to eating as an experience. The Reading Terminal Market is a gold mine of delicious cheeses (whose names I cannot pronounce), veggies and a smörgåsbord of freshly slaughtered meats! Capogiro makes the richest creamiest most amazing gelato I have ever had and it has COMPLETELY screwed my love affair with ice cream. (I'm sorry baby, it's just not the same anymore...) South Philly Pho is the cheapest most delicious soup in the world. I could quite literally drown myself in the steaming bowl of steak*, sprouts and Sriracha and die a happy girl. The restaurants that I've discovered in Philly make me wish I hadn't wasted those 9 years on ketchup sandwiches. These days I sample foods sorta like I experimented with hallucinogens in high school... "Hey, what's that? Screw it, gimme some."

So, thank you Philly Phoodies for steering me away from canned pasta and boxed mac and cheese. Thank you Steph for your gumbo and Tacy for your stress relief baking. Thank you Capogiro for completely ruining soft serve for everyone. And thank you Pho houses everywhere. I love you. I'll see you later tonight, please save me a table.

*I don't know if it's really steak and I TOTALLY don't care.

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I LOVE LUNCH!!

Lunch is highly underrated! To our great detriment, Americans are incredibly hardworking. What are you talking about? Smoking crack again? Nope, not this time. We work so hard, that we rarely savor lunch. Lunch is something we grab and slam! Possibly even in the car! It is not fair. Have I mentioned that John and I live to travel? No, really - I thought I mentioned that. We work hard to play hard.

Part of playing hard is taking a ludicrously long lunch, Italian-style or Brazilian-style, while on vacation. We are not eating alone. We have joined others on their lunch "hour." I look at the next table: wine, pasta, salad, cheese and yes, dessert with more wine AND conversation, laughter and sometimes arguments. It is a blast.

One summer we were in Venice with my kids and my lovely in-laws. Europeans tend to eat later than Americans. We arrived (starving) around noon to a fantastic restaurant that was recommended by one of our favorite regulars, Sr. Carlos Basualdo. The man not only knows art, he knows food. Our early arrival was greeted with, "Now? You want lunch now?" We smiled sheepishly, "Si, ho fame!" They replied that they, the staff and kitchen, were going to sit down for a quick bite, but they would happily seat us with some bread sticks and water if we did not mind waiting. The smells coming from the kitchen were too much and we agreed. Eating well in Venice can be challenging. It is a city based on tourism and with that comes terrible restaurants. Y'all know what I mean.

Our table, shaded by umbrellas, was situated outside by a small canal. The restaurant was in a neighborhood that once harbored the city's prostitutes and there was a Ponte de le Tette (Bridge of..well, Boobs) to our side. It was quiet except for the clinks of silverware and the murmurs of conversation along with one heated argument followed by roars of laughter coming from the restaurant. Occasionally, someone would appear with two more bottles of water and a fresh basket of bread. It was an out and out lunch party. 90 MINUTES LATER, the same attractive polite man who sat us, came out and handed us menus with a pleasant smile. My little guy was about to cry.

We quickly ordered. Immediately, individual glass bowls of perfectly fried whole shrimp, no larger than a dime, were delivered salty and hot. Compliments of the chef. After the first glass of wine, we started to laugh. Two and 1/2 hours later, while my little guy slept leaning against the restaurant's outer wall, we were finished. Our stomachs hurt from the glorious lunch and from laughing so hard. The neighboring tables were finishing up as well. Business men and women, not tourists, returned to where they first came. It was a monumental lunch for the Reitano Clan, but just lunch for others.

Why can't lunch be more important? Since moving to our Big Kitchen, lunch is survival. I don't want pizza or subs everyday. I want a delicious salad or fried chicken from Meme. I want long lunches. I cannot have them. I am American. I can have some delicious soup from Capo with a perfectly toasted panini. If I cannot have the time, I must have the quality. Join me, Love Lunch. Improv Everywhere agrees!

Why the Wintertime Isn't That Bad

The wintertime, albeit cold and miserable, is a special time that offers its own unique gifts. Here's just a few:

Persimmon sorbetto! It doesn't get any better than this, people. It's hard to believe it's dairy free. They're a peculiar fruit, looking like a squat orange tomato. Did you know Mitchell, Indiana has an annual Persimmon Festival? Wild! Maybe I can save up my tips for a field trip to the Midwest.

Blood Orange sorbetto! (See previous blog entry. Enough said...)

King Leo Stracciatella! Classic Italian chocolate chip gelato with fresh peppermint and hand-crushed peppermint candies. One of our more labor-intensive flavors, but well worth it! It may make an encore appearance by popular demand before winter is through. (Hint hint: call us and ask for it!)

I know, I know, you're asking yourself "Frozen treats in the winter?" Pish posh, lucky for you we keep it a cozy 71° inside our cafes.

Hot Apple Cider! Locally pressed, of course. Spiked with Vietnamese Cinnamon and steamed ever so delicately by your loving barista.

Mochas! We serve this chocolatey espresso drink year-round, but it's more fun to drink them during the cold, dark days. Don't forget a generous dollop of whipped cream!

Soup! Our homemade peasant-style soup is one of the best parts of working for Capo. With an ever-changing variety of hearty freshly made soups, lunch is never boring!

BBBLLLOOOOOOODDDDD OOORRANNNNGGEEEESSSUUHHH!!

Yes, I just screamed that. Why!?!! WHY!!! Because I need y'all to stop emailing me about seeing blood oranges at the grocery store or having a lovely snappy blood orange martini at the bar. I am also talking to you, baristi! I know you want your fix. Need your fix. Do y'all realize that the blood orange juice in your cocktail probably came from a box?!?! GRRROOOSSSSS! Blech. Okay. Breathe. I am much calmer now. My apologies for spitting.

We have a silly rule at Capo: we will serve no fruit (blood oranges, in this case) until it is time. We had a case before the holidays that tasted like, well, like lighter fluid. No joke. Lighter fluid. What was up with that? How is that possible? We just won't do it. So sorry. But today is a glorious day! Thomas has found delicious blood oranges at the docks. The flesh is not the darkest, but give it time, my friends.

I know, I know. I lectured y'all about eating seasonally with my truffle brag and then I yell at you for being excited about a colossally delicious fruit. I am not good, but I have good intentions. Lyle Lovette said that. He's a genius.

Bloods will be in the cafes in the next two days. Send me the love.....sorry for yelling. I am excited too.

P.S. I love the Capogirians. Hounding me for blood....so cute.

UPDATE: Lorenzo's brother solved the mystery of the lighter fluid oranges. Alessandro says, "Quelle troppo acerbe (di solito si raccolgono un po' indieto di maturazione) si sverdiscono con etilene, poi si trattano con cere per renderle piu' brillanti e resistenti alle manipolazioni."

OF COURSE! They (meaning mass market farmers) harvest oranges a bit early so they can travel; if then they are too green, they turn them orange by rubbing them with ethylene..
Then the oranges are waxed to be more resistant..

Barista on Barista, cont.

Oh, Fernando.. I can remember when he was a new kid on the block. He wasn't always mustache-clad with guitar strapped on his back. But with the help of gelato's secret powers, he evolved into the man we know today. I was one of the lucky few to sit him down and pick his brain.

Ryan: How long have you been here?

Fernando: Going on two years in March.

R: What do you like best about working here?

F: I'd say that the best thing about working here is unlimited access to cioccolato scuro. (And I have to agree, dark chocolate, you are a force to reckon with)

R: What's your all time fave flavor and why?

F: Sweet potato pecan praline, because it tastes like Thanksgiving on a spoon.

R: You always come hand in hand with your guitar. Why is that?

F: I never know who I'll meet while working. I like to bring it around, because I close a lot, and we're near a lot of open mic nights. I like to go after work.

R: Where do you like to play?

F: Doc Watson's, Fergies, Time occasionally. When it's warmer, I play outside, like Rittenhouse Square. (I've been swooned by his guitar in warm summer weather before. It's lovely. And if you walk in when Seal's "Kissed By A Rose" comes on, prepare for a full-out breakdown of his power.)

R: As Capogiro's "Ladies' Man," what would you suggest a gent has a lady try to seduce her? What flavor and why?

F: I'd say Mexican chocolate. It's spicy, muy caliente. It has flavor, adds intensity to any relationship, and chocolate is an aphrodisiac.

R: Lastly, what's your sweet 'stache say about you?

F: I'm eccentric. I have a flare for dramatics, and I enjoy the fashion of the 19th century. (Riiiiiight)

Well, there it is. A venture to the belly of the beast. Until next time, this is R2 with Barista on Barista.

White Truffles Make Me Happy

Last winter, John and I went on a food odyssey in Italy. We tended to some gelato business in Milan and then went on a 10 day tour of Piedmont. It was chilly and damp; for some odd reason, I love Italy draped in weather which is probably considered uncomfortable. We wrapped up in heavy coats, wore sturdy waterproof shoes and hit the cobblestones. All our odysseys usually involve food and this one was epic: it was truffle season and we were going all out. After talking with friends, we nailed down the cities: Alba, Monforte d'Alba, Torino, Barolo...to name a few. In each town, we had a mission - find the best restaurant with the best truffles and wine and enjoy. It was epic. Did I already say that? Well, it was. The truffles were as intoxicating as the scenery.


Over the holidays we had many dinners with family and friends. I have already written about Casamento's. When John received a call from our friend Jean Phillipe stating that he managed to get his paws on some truffles from Alba and can we bring dessert, I started counting the minutes down. Jean Phi can cook. I mean really cook. His friends were bringing the wine, excellent wine, and we were in for something great. So off we were to join JP, his lovely smart wife, her mom, his sister, and her husband and his wine genius friends. Sounds like it could get ugly.

Needless to say, it was glorious. We started with eggs and truffles, then beautiful fresh beans with truffle mayonnaise and truffles, then truffle risotto with more truffles, Jean Phi made fresh papardelle with butter,
parmesan and truffles, duck confit with potato gratin with truffles, and finally dessert. With each course was a new bottle of wine. Beyond words.

One of the most glorious things about truffles is that they are seasonal.
You can buy truffles in butter and oil year round, but why? It is the new year and why not try eating seasonally? Here at Capo, we only use fruit that is seasonal: it is not worth it otherwise. Strawberries in February, why? Tasteless and grainy, hard and too cold. When you eat seasonally, you appreciate the quality and the flavors much more. Trust. A New Year's Resolution - Eat Seasonally, increase happiness.

The Future is So Bright....

Today is the first day of the new year. I have big hopes and dreams. Nothing unobtainable (I hope). It really does seem like yesterday that we dreamed up Capo and made the leap. Just look above at my two boys! It makes my heart heavy. Time goes by so fast. I should be eating chili at Gibbs and Morgen's house at their annual chili party, but John is not feeling well (he's passed out snoring on the couch - not common) and, honestly, we are exhausted. It is the first day of the new year and some well needed rest is just what we need to start off the year right.

Last night our neighborhood was wild. Parties up and down the block complete with sparklers, fire crackers, and drunken howls. The five of us tucked in and I made gnocchi. We toasted with glasses of prosecco and sparkling apple juice for the kids. It was lovely. The world outside was crazy, but we were quiet and reflective.

It has been such a difficult year. We opened two new stores plus a Big Kitchen. Everyone has been asked to tighten the ship. This is a new year with big things ahead! I am going to march into the Big Kitchen on Monday, make Tiffany's Sweet Potato with Pineapple gelato, work on tartufi and candy the hell out of citrus peels. It is going to be a good year!

Resolutions

Have you got yours? You know what I'm talking about, that time of year when you decide to change something about your life. Cut the fat, stop eating waffles, drink more water, buy more speedo's. It doesn't matter what it is really, the question is whether or not you'll be able to keep it.

I wish I could give you good tips and tricks here to help you keep whatever New Year's resolution you decide upon, but my track record, like most, isn't that great. Regardless, we'll be there for you on New Year's Day at our Midtown Village and Rittenhouse Square locations to offer up coffee to fuel your resolution, or maybe just a little sugar rush from our gelato to get you through that crazy parade of Mummer's.

Best of luck to your resolutions and see you next decade!

Passions and Preferences

You say to-MAY-to, I say to-MAH-to. We all have our way of doing things. I think I can speak for just about all Capogirians when I say we all have a passion for food; different preferences, but the common thread is definitely passion. We talk about food, we argue about food, and we are always talking about what we are going to eat next while we are eating. When someone travels, you hear, "Oh! You must try (insert bar/bakery/cafe/restaurant/street vendor/younameit here). Do not leave until you do!" Kamala returned from West Virginia with Oliverio peppers, Dan returns from Wisconsin with curds and eye patches (don't ask), Tacy returns from Maine with tales of lobsters and blueberries (you cannot bring those back), Lorenzo returns with artichokes, and I return with hot sauce and beignet mix. We are passionate.

Today we discussed what we ate in our holiday haunts. The highlight for me was probably one of the most delicious sandwiches I have ever had. See this beauty? It is an Oyster Loaf from Casamento's on Magazine Street in New Orleans. I am not one for white bread, but I lovelovelove oysters. This was near perfection. My brother-in-law, Tiger, took John and I for lunch. He said that he brings out of town-ers to Casamento's. 3 dozen oysters, shucked by the most adorable men, oyster stew, fried crab claws, 3 1/2 oyster loaves, and 6 Abita Gold beers served by the sweetest woman, who started out surly because we were mucking up the runway for the servers. Agreed. As I said, I am not one for white bread, but this was not your ordinary white bread: it was buttery and, quite honestly, worth fighting over. The oysters were shucked moments before and fried perfectly. These people are worthy of worship - Food Titans.

That was not the only perfection of the week. There were others. I'll save it for later. Another time.

I am home and thinking I need to create some new flavors. I feel inspired.